If you’re new to surfing, understanding how to read surf reports and forecasts can feel a little overwhelming at first. Terms like “swell period,” “offshore winds,” and “tidal range” may seem foreign, but these elements play a vital role in determining whether it’s a good day to surf. Knowing how to interpret these reports will help you choose the best times and locations to hit the water, ultimately improving your surf experience.
This beginner’s guide will break down key factors such as swell size, period, wind conditions, and tides, and point you toward reliable forecast sources to ensure you’re always prepared for your next surf session.
1. Understanding Swell Size and Direction
Swell size is one of the most critical factors in determining wave height, and it's usually reported in feet or meters. The larger the swell, the bigger the waves. As a beginner, you’ll likely want to look for smaller swells, ideally between 1-4 feet. Larger swells tend to produce more powerful waves, which are better suited to experienced surfers.
Swell direction tells you which way the waves are coming from. Different surf spots work best with different swell directions, so it's important to know how your local break responds. For example, on the UK’s west coast, beaches like Newquay in Cornwall tend to work well with swells coming from the southwest.
- Forecast Sources: Websites like Surfline (surfline.com) offer detailed swell forecasts, including size and direction, for thousands of spots worldwide.
2. Swell Period: Why It Matters
The swell period is the time in seconds between waves. A longer swell period (10-20 seconds) usually means the waves will be more powerful and well-formed, which leads to cleaner, more rideable waves. Shorter swell periods (less than 10 seconds) tend to result in messy, choppy conditions.
For example, a swell period of 15 seconds in the UK often indicates a well-developed swell generated far out at sea, resulting in good-quality waves. If the swell period is below 7 seconds, it typically means the waves are wind-driven and may be disorganised.
- Forecast Sources: Surfline provides swell period information, so be sure to check this data when planning your surf.
3. Wind: Offshore vs. Onshore
Wind direction plays a crucial role in shaping waves. Ideally, surfers look for offshore winds—winds that blow from the land towards the ocean. Offshore winds help to hold the wave faces up, creating smoother, cleaner waves that are easier to ride.
Onshore winds, on the other hand, blow from the ocean towards the land. These winds can make the waves messy and choppy, making for less enjoyable surf conditions.
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Tip: In the UK, you can often find offshore winds in the morning before the sea breeze kicks in, which can turn onshore by afternoon.
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Forecast Sources: Windy (windy.com) offers real-time wind forecasts. Surfline also includes wind data in their surf forecasts.
4. Tides: High vs. Low Tide
Different surf spots work better at different tides. In the UK, many beach breaks are tide-dependent, meaning that the quality of the waves changes with the tide.
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High tide: At some surf spots, high tide can bring waves closer to shore and allow them to break over deeper water. However, high tide can also make waves “fat” and slow.
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Low tide: Low tide can expose shallow reefs or sandbanks, leading to faster and more powerful waves. However, at some spots, low tide can make waves too shallow, causing them to close out.
To understand when your local break works best, it’s essential to track the tides. For example, spots like Croyde Bay in North Devon often work better around mid to high tide, whereas Thurso East in Scotland can offer epic waves during low tide.
- Forecast Sources: Use Tide Times (tidetimes.org.uk) for accurate tidal data, or refer to local tide charts provided by Surfline.
5. Wave Height vs. Breaking Wave Height
It’s important to note that the swell height reported on surf forecasts doesn’t always reflect the actual size of the breaking waves you’ll encounter. The reported swell height refers to the height of the waves out at sea, whereas the breaking wave height is what you’ll experience at the shoreline. Factors like the shape of the coastline and ocean floor (bathymetry) can influence the final wave height.
For instance, a 6-foot swell might produce 4-foot breaking waves at a beach break, but at a steep reef, that same swell could produce 8-foot waves.
- Forecast Sources: Websites like Surfline will provide both swell height and breaking wave height predictions based on local conditions.
6. Combining All the Data: When to Surf
To get the best out of a surf report, you need to combine all the factors—swell size, period, direction, wind, and tide. As a beginner, aim for smaller swells, offshore winds, and conditions that suit your local spot’s tidal preferences.
For example, if you’re surfing at Porthcawl, South Wales, a forecast showing a 3-foot swell with a 12-second period, offshore winds from the east, and mid to high tide would likely provide great conditions for catching smooth, clean waves.
Final Thoughts
Reading surf reports and forecasts might seem like a lot to learn at first, but with practice, it becomes second nature. By understanding how swell size, period, wind direction, and tides interact, you’ll be able to time your surf sessions for optimal conditions, whether you’re at a beach break in Cornwall or a reef in Scotland.
Make sure to regularly check reliable forecast websites like Surfline and Windy to stay informed and always prepare for the best surf.